(NOTE: The following is a brief walkthrough of what was done. As such, the placement of the scangaugeII is temporary and the permanent gauge installation will be detailed in a companion guide.)

The Head Unit
Like I said, I am not an audio connousieur so when it came to reducing the size of the head unit, I only needed it to fit a few criteria. It had to be cheap, easy to install, play CD’s and connect to the IPOD. At Crutchfield’s I found the Sony GT62IPW with install kit for only $129.99. I won’t cover the install here as Crutchfield’s included impeccable instructions that made the install a breeze. (I highly recommend Crutchfield’s if you are looking for stereo equipment.)

The new head unit arrived in two business days.

This image was taken during the removal of the dual DIN factory head unit.

The space below the new single DIN head unit will be used for the permanent mounting of the scangaugeII and the oil temperature gauge.

The ScanGaugeII
The ScanGaugeII is a device that plugs into the OBDII port on your car and displays a variety of parameters that the ecu in the car sees. For example, I have mine set up to display the coolant and intake air temps as well as volts and MPG. You can find out more at the ScanGauge site. For the time being, the ScanGaugeII is temporarily mounted on the lower left side of the dash. It will be relocated to the extra slot below the single DIN head unit with an additional oil temperature gauge soon.

The ScanGaugeII.

The temporary location for the ScanGaugeII

Gallery

Background
Replacing the timing belt on the CA18DET is a simple, though somewhat labor intensive task that can trip up new owners of the CA18DET. This guide will explain the process as well as a couple of shortcuts that will demystify the timing belt for new CA18DET owners. Also, I will follow this install up with a shortcut guide that shows a significantly quicker process for those that are only replacing the timing belt. (For example: No head work such as head gasket.)

Step 1: Access the Belt
To access the timing belt on the ca, you will first need to remove the pulley belts from the front of the motor as well as the water pump pulley. Accessory belts can be removed by loosening the tensioner bolt on the side of the alternator, p/s pump and ac condenser and then sliding each part towards the block. This loosens the belts and they will slide off. Then remove the CAS from the upper timing cover and then unbolt the cover from the engine and set to the side. (NOTE: There should be an alignment marking on the CAS that mates to the cover. If there is not one present, you can add one with a marker. Also, at this point, leave the lower timing cover in place.)

Step 2: Inspect the Belt
Before proceeding, go ahead and inspect the belt thoroughly. Look for cracks in the belt, broken ribs or brittleness. If none of these conditions exist, and you don’t need to remove the cylinder head, then in all honesty you are better off leaving the belt alone as it does not need replacing. Continue on if you are removing the head or need to replace the belt.

Step 3: Set the Motor at TDC
Set the motor at TDC (Top Dead Center) for cylinder # 1 by first ensuring that the transmission is in neutral. Then, remove the ignition pack from the top of the head above cylinder #1 to expose the spark plug. Remove the spark plug and then place a long, 3/8″ extension into the combustion chamber via the spark plug hole. (CAUTION: Make sure the extension is long enough as to not slide all the way into the chamber. Otherwise, you WILL HAVE TO remove the cylinder head to retrieve the extension.) Next, with a 27 mm socket and wrench, slowly turn the crank pulley clockwise and notice how the extension in cylinder #1 will move up and down. Stop turning when the extension extends the highest from the cylinder head. This is the point where cylinder #1 is at TDC.

Step 4: Remove the Crank Pulley
You will first need to remove the crank pulley to access the whole belt. Do this by placing the transmission in first gear and then, with an impact wrench with the 27mm socket. With the bolt removed, you will need a puller to remove the crank pulley from the crank shaft. (These can be rented or purchased at any auto parts store.)

Step 5: Remove the Belt.
Locate the tensioner (the round piece below the intake cam gear) and loosen the 13 mm nut. Then, take an allen wrench and turn the tensioner clockwise. Notice that as the tensioner turns, the timing belt will loosen. After turning the tensioner, tighten the 13 mm nut to lock the tensioner in the loosened position. You will now be able to slide the timing belt off the cam gears and the lower sprocket.

Step 6: Lining Up the Timing Marks
As shown earlier, the lower sprocket has a small notch on one of the teeth that lines up with the notch on the lower lip when the motor was set at TDC. If you look at both the intake and exhaust cam gears, you will notice that they each have a single tooth that is marked white. These white marks correspond to marks on the black plate behind the gears. If these marks aren’t lined up, you will need to spin each cam gear until it lines up with its respective mark. This can be done by either spinning the cam gear by hand or if that doesn’t work, removing the valve covers and spinning the camshaft. (NOTE: You could also spin the motor with the belt on when you were setting TDC until all marks line up. However, this could take many revolutions.)

Step 7: Installing the New Timing Belt.
Before installing the new timing belt, note that there are three white lines on the belt. These match up with the markings on the cam gears and sprocket. So take the belt in hand and locate the three marking. Note that two of them are closer together than the third. The two close one go on the cam gears and the third aligns to the sprocket. Also, realize that the belt only goes one way so starting at the bottom, align the lower marking to the sprocket and then snake the belt around the idler pulley (the one you haven’t touched yet) and verify that there is a white marking corresponding to the exhaust cam gear marking. If there isn’t, remove and flip it around. At this point, I recommend that you go ahead and loosen the 13mm nut on the tensioner so that it will move freely. (This will be helpfully in a minute) Now, after aligning the lower marking of the belt to the sprocket, snake the left side of the belt around the tensioner pulley and slide the belt around the intake cam gear verifying that the marks line up. Then continue along this path around the exhaust side, once again verifying all marking line up. During this process, you can use the allen wrench to increase or reduce tension on the timing belt to make it easier to move. Once again, verify all of the marks line up and then count the cogs between the lower sprocket marks and the exhaust cam gear (48) and the between the 2 cam gear marks (39). If anything doesn’t match, pull the belt and realign it.

Step 8: Finishing Up
Making sure that the timing belt doesn’t slip, rotate the tensioner counter clockwise and then clockwise a few times to remove slack from the belt. Then tighten the tensioner and ensure that keeps pressure on the belt. (You will want very little deflection in you timing belt.) Next, reinstall the washer that sat between the belt sprocket and the crank pulley and then reinstall any lower covers you may use. Then, verify that the car is in 1st gear with the emergency brake engaged and reinstall the crank pulley using the impact gun. Once in place, the crank pulley should be tightened to 110 ft-lbs. Before proceeding, place the car back in neutral and with a wrench and the 27mm socket once again spin the crank which will rotate the whole engine. Make two revolution and verify that the timing belt does not slip and that it does not deflect. If everything checks out ok, go ahead and replace the upper timing cover and then the water pump pulley and CAS. Finally, reattach the accessory belts and anything else that you need to remove and enjoy.

Install Gallery

• Project 240sx Overhaul Journal Index

Day 26 and there are a lot of miscellaneous things creeping up. First, I am making a few changes to the oil system in the cylinder head of the CA18DET. Below are a few random pics and I will follow this up with a full guide that explains the method and reason to add this feature the CA18DET. (I am swamped right now so expect to see this in 2 to 3 weeks.) Also, it turns out my torque wrench went south and as a result, I had to fix a broken off bolt from the #4 cam cap. Not fun. And finally, with the removal of the head, I was able to document several procedures such as replacing the timing belt which is an oft asked question by new ca owners. So this guide will be added soon also.

I found this rare oil cooler for my CA18DET at a salvage yard. It is a Nissan inline oil cooler that bolts to the CA18DET block. Although these were standard on UK market CA’s, I found this little gem on a 1980’s (year unknown) Nissan Maxima. Check it out: (CA18DET Inline Oil Cooler (UK Factory Oil Cooler))

July 27, 2008

Day 22: Single Stage Oil Cooler, Cold Air Intake and BOV Recirculation

July 23, 2008

Part 3 of the over the top intake manifold is now online. Simply click the link or the image below. (CA18DET Over the Top Intake Manifold (CA16DE) Install (Part 3: Vacuum and Wiring)

July 21, 2008

New Project 240sx Overhaul Update: Day 21: Finalizing the Charge Pipe and Installing the BOV

July 15, 2008

A new entry in the 240sx Overhaul Journal is available.
Day 20: Turbo Manifold Bracing and Charge Pipe Mock Up

July 11, 2008

Part 2 of the over the top intake manifold install on the CA18DET is now online. (CA18DET Over the Top (CA16DE) Intake Manifold (Part 2)) And it looks like this has grown from a 2 part series to 3 so check back for the custom charge pipe install, line routing and throttle cable bracket fabrication.

July 8, 2008

Part 1 of the CA18DET over the top intake manifold install is now available. (CA18DET Over the Top (CA16DE) Intake Manifold Install (Part 1)) It goes into a lot more detail and discusses some of the pros this system will have over the factory hardware.

July 7, 2008

How do you set up a CA18DET with less than 2 feet of boost piping. Install a Nissan Pulsar over the top intake manifold. Project 240sx Overhaul Journal (Day 19: Nissan Pulsar Over the Top Intake Manifold)

• Project 240sx Overhaul Journal Index

Day 25: I used my new powder coating gun to powder coat the valve covers, front engine cover and the thermostat housing. Also, new hard lines have been run from the 2 valve cover vents to a common T which will then route to an oil catch can. Smaller lines are used on the vents as I will be adding a rear oil drain to the head which will reduce the chances of blow-by under heavy throttle.

• Project 240sx Overhaul Journal Index

I had a change of heart on the exhaust routing and fabricated a new downpipe/uppipe that utilizes the RSR exhaust.  The exhaust now routes along the stock path and retains the high flow catco 3in catalyst.  2-1/2in pipe runs from the turbo a 3in section where the exhaust and wastegate gasses merge.  This should help quite things down and flow more than enough for the t3 turbo.

• Project 240sx Overhaul Journal Index

Things are starting to wind down with project 240sx and as any project builder knows, a bunch of miscellaneous things are starting to crop up. Recently, a mount to secure the throttle cable on the top mount manifold was fabricated as well as new radiator lines for the new 3in core, custom hard lines for valve cover venting and a new downpipe that will route the exhaust out the passenger’s side of the car.

• MR2 Spyder Power Steering Removal (Part 1: Try Before You Buy)
• MR2 Spyder Power Steering Removal (Part 2: The Vented Surge Box)
• MR2 Spyder Power Steering Removal (Part 3: Disabling the P/S Warning Light)
• MR2 Spyder Power Steering Removal (Part 4: The Final Install)

Tools/Parts

• tube cutter
• tube bender
• tube end flaring tool
• thread sealant tape
• 1/4″ brake line t’s
• several 1/4″ brake lines
• 2 x 3/8″ threaded plug
• proper adapters for your surge box

STEP 1: Park the car on level ground and then open the hood. Remove any plastic trim and then remove the spare and the tub. (In my case, I have to disconnect the battery and remove the strut bar.) While facing the car, disconnect the lower left steering line from the rack and drain the power steering fluid into a container.

Open the hood and then remove the spare tire and tub and any other items that will hinder access to the power steering rack.

Disconnect the lower left power steering line from the rack and then drain the fluid into an oil pan.

STEP 2: Remove the old lines and adapters leaving the reservoir in place.

This is the old adapter and lines from the steering rack that were fabricated in part 2.

Remove the 2 larger lines from the back of the rack.

STEP 3: After removing the two 3/8″ lines from the back, plug the opening with the 2 - 3/8″ plugs. Then fab 2 sets of new brake lines using the factory ends (*) on new 1/4″ brake lines. See the images below. You will need the flaring tool for this procedure. (Note: * Factory ends are the hard line fittings that connect to the steering rack. In my case, these were cut off of the factory MR2 lines and installed on new 1/4″ brake line using a flaring tool.)

Plug these two opening with the 3/8″ brass plugs.

This image shows the lower ports T’ed together on the front of the steering rack. The factory fittings to the rack were used with new brake lines and a T fitting.

The new lines can be secured under the front cross member. The arrows indicate the direction to the surge box.(Note: This image is from a mock up and as pictured in the previous image, the final T on the lower portion of the rack was shortened significantly.)

STEP 4: Finally, you can either run 2 additional hard lines from the T’s under the cross member to the surge box or you can use hose fittings and run flexible line. Either way, connect each line to a separate port at the bottom of the surge box and then fill the box 3/4 with power steering fluid. Then add the breather filter back to the top of the box.

(FINISHED PIC COMING SHORTLY)

Related Links

• MR2 Spyder Power Steering Removal (Part 1: Try Before You Buy)
• MR2 Spyder Power Steering Removal (Part 2: The Vented Surge Box)
• MR2 Spyder Power Steering Removal (Part 3: Disabling the P/S Warning Light)
• MR2 Spyder Power Steering Removal (Part 4: The Final Install)

Install Gallery

Part 3 of removing the power steering from the MR2 Spyder has been added. MR2 Spyder Power Steering Removal (Part 3: Disabling the P/S Warning Light)

June 13, 2008

New updates to Project 240sx Overhaul Journal:
Day 17: Marine Oil Cooler (Oil to Coolant Cooler)
Day 18: Custom Turbo Manifold Mock-up and Turbo Placement

June 9, 2008

I added a running miles per gallon chart for project MR2 Spyder to track a figure of ever increasing importance in today’s economy. This way, it will be very easy to track how performance increases affect gas mileage. Check it out: MR2 Spyder Gas Mileage (MPG)

June 6, 2008

New tech article for the 240sx. Welding the S13 Differential (The Perfect Practice Diff)

June 3, 2008

A new guide has been added to the 240sx tech section. S13 Odometer Rollback (For Track Cars Only) but do read the disclaimer first.

And in news that has absolutely nothing to do with motorsports, I recently upgraded all of the software Driftopia runs on and one package in particular has had multiple issues recently. Don’t worry, it is just a back end problem that has to do with the latest version of Ubuntu and Wordpress and its new file uploader. So to any webmasters struggling with this look here: Ubuntu 8.04 (Hardy Herron), Firefox 3 and Wordpress 2.5 File Uploader Hack